I pantaloni più democratici del fashion system sono nati quasi per caso da un’idea di Levi Strauss, imprenditore di abbigliamento bavarese emigrato in California a fine Ottocento per far fruttare il business di famiglia. Vendendo in poco tempo il carico di vestiti col quale era partito, trasformò in un paio di pantaloni l’unico pezzo di stoffa da tendone per i carri che gli era rimasto: erano i primi jeans. Questi pantaloni tanto resistenti furono apprezzati dai minatori della zona, ma da allora sono state diverse le evoluzioni dei jeans: dalla scelta del denim come tessuto all’intuizione di Davis – sarto del Nevada – per rinforzare i jeans senza ricorrere ai rivetti di rame, ai jeans da donna – tanto che oggi questo capo “da lavoro” è un’icona di stile anche per l’abbigliamento femminile.
La trasformazione del processo produttivo di Levi’s
Una rivoluzione tecnologica è alle porte in casa Levi Strauss: dal 2020 lo storico brand di abbigliamento, noto soprattutto per i suoi jeans, impiegherà robot nelle ultime fasi del processo produttivo. Le rifiniture dei jeans come piccoli strappi e scolorite non saranno più fatte a mano, ma realizzate da macchine laser. Il progetto che rivoluzionerà la progettazione, la realizzazione e la commercializzazione dei jeans Levi’s prende il nome di F.L.X. (future-led execution). La digitalizzazione del processo di produzione determinerà la riduzione di tutti i passaggi manuali finora necessari per rifinire e personalizzare i jeans: grazie alle macchine, da una ventina di passaggi manuali si passerà a tre steps circa; semplificando così l’intera catena produttiva e velocizzando i tempi.
Le implicazioni economiche, lavorative e ambientali del cambiamento
La decisione di Levi’s di introdurre macchine laser nel processo di produzione nasce dalla necessità di contenere tempi, costi ed impatto delle sostanze chimiche sull’ambiente. Per terminare un paio di jeans basteranno 90 secondi, a fronte dei 60 minuti attuali per confezionare due o tre paia di pantaloni. Anche il processo di ideazione del modello sarà velocizzato: saranno prodotti dei jeans standard che i designer, e in futuro i clienti, potranno personalizzare attraverso un software. Dalla progettazione alla creazione passeranno pochi giorni o settimane anziché mesi, come accade ora. Grazie alla digitalizzazione del processo di fabbricazione, le sostanze chimiche impiegate nelle finiture dei jeans passeranno da qualche migliaia a poche decine, consentendo a Levi’s di avvicinarsi all’obiettivo di azzerare la sostanze chimiche per il 2020. Anche gli operai saranno più tutelati: la minore esposizione alle sostanze chimiche sarà un fattore positivo per la loro salute. Il brand ha affermato che la rivoluzione del processo produttivo non si tradurrà nella decurtazione del personale, quello in esubero sarà riassegnato ad altre divisioni aziendali con altre funzioni.
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